The Marquise cut diamond, also known as the navette cut, is one of the most distinctive and elegant shapes in the world of jewelry. This cut stands out not only for its elongated and sophisticated appearance but also for its aesthetic benefits and the technical challenges it presents, such as the well-known bow-tie effect. In this article, we explain everything you need to know about this cut: from its history and ideal proportions to key tips for choosing the best stone.
Before diving into the details of the Marquise cut, we recommend checking out our comprehensive guide on diamond cut quality, where you’ll find essential information on how to evaluate this fundamental characteristic in any diamond.
What is a Marquise Cut Diamond?
The Marquise cut, also called navette (French for “little boat”), is characterized by its elliptical shape with pointed ends.
Its elongated design provides a silhouette that visually enhances the diamond’s size, offering presence and elegance.
Historical Origin and Alternate Name
This cut is said to have been commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who wanted a diamond shaped like the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Since then, the Marquise cut has maintained its aristocratic and romantic allure.
Distinctive Visual Features
A well-cut Marquise diamond offers a balance between length, width, and symmetry. Its pointed shape demands excellent facet alignment to achieve maximum brilliance and minimize optical flaws.
Ideal Proportions and Symmetry in a Marquise Diamond
The balance between length and width defines the aesthetics of the Marquise cut. The ideal ratio is typically between 1.75:1 and 2.25:1, depending on personal style.
Importance of Symmetry
Because this cut has two ends, any asymmetry becomes very noticeable. A misaligned culet or an uneven crown can compromise the diamond’s beauty and value.
Advantages of the Marquise Diamond
Besides its sophisticated look, the Marquise diamond offers benefits that make it especially popular among those seeking a unique piece.
Elongates the Finger and Looks Bigger
Thanks to its elongated shape, the Marquise can make fingers appear slimmer and longer. Additionally, its exposed surface often appears larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight.
Perfect for Vintage Engagement Rings
The Marquise cut was especially popular in the 1960s and 1980s, making it common in retro and vintage designs—a trend that’s resurging alongside the interest in the Asscher diamond.
The Bow-Tie Effect in Marquise Diamonds
One of the most talked-about aspects of this cut is the bow-tie effect—a dark shadow in the shape of a bowtie that may appear in the center of the diamond.
What Is the Bow-Tie Effect and Why Does It Happen?
The bow-tie is an optical phenomenon that occurs when light isn’t reflected evenly due to improper proportions or poor cutting. While it can appear in many elongated cuts, like oval or pear, it’s more pronounced in the Marquise.
How to Minimize or Avoid the Bow-Tie
To avoid this effect, it’s essential to observe the diamond under different types of lighting before buying. A cut with proper proportions and good symmetry typically reduces the visibility of the bow-tie significantly.
What Setting Best Suits the Marquise Cut?
Since its tips are pointed, it’s important to choose a setting that protects them while enhancing the diamond’s beauty.
V-Prongs and Halo Settings
Settings with protective prongs at each end help preserve the diamond’s integrity. A halo of small diamonds can also add extra sparkle without competing with the main shape.
Secure and Elegant Settings
Other options include partial or full bezel settings that surround the diamond and protect it from impact. These settings also offer a modern and sophisticated look.
Comparison of the Marquise Cut with Other Popular Cuts
If you’re considering a Marquise diamond, it’s worth comparing it with other cuts of similar characteristics.
Marquise vs. Oval Cut
Both are elongated, but the oval cut has rounded edges, while the Marquise features pointed tips that create a more slimming effect.
Marquise vs. Emerald and Princess Cuts
The emerald cut has a more architectural style with straight facets, while the princess cut is more square. The Marquise, meanwhile, combines elegance with visual dynamism.
Tips for Buying a Marquise Cut Diamond
To make a wise purchase, consider the following aspects:
What to Look for in Cut, Symmetry, and Brilliance
Choose diamonds with a balanced length-to-width ratio, good symmetry, and a cut that maximizes light dispersion.
Certificates and Expert Advice
Always look for stones certified by reputable laboratories like GIA. Also, seek advice from experts to ensure the chosen diamond is free of optical and structural flaws.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions About the Marquise Cut Diamond
What does the term “navette” mean in reference to the Marquise cut?
“Navette” is a French word meaning “little boat,” referring to the diamond’s elongated and pointed shape.
Is the bow-tie effect a serious flaw?
Not necessarily. A slight bow-tie effect is normal, but if it’s very visible, it can detract from the diamond’s beauty and value.
What are the ideal proportions in a Marquise diamond?
The ideal length-to-width ratio is between 1.75:1 and 2.25:1, depending on personal taste and the type of jewelry.
What diamond cut is recommended to avoid the bow-tie effect?
Besides the Marquise, other elongated cuts like oval or pear also present this effect. To minimize it, look for diamonds with high-quality cuts and good symmetry.
